Luis Renteria
Artwork Description
Coyuchi is a variety of Mexican cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) with a natural brown colour. Its name comes from the Nahuatl word coyoichcatl, meaning “coyote-coloured cotton.” This material was widely used during pre-Columbian times but gradually lost prominence to white cotton, which proved more efficient for the textile industry. However, coyuchi survived thanks to individuals who continued cultivating it in their courtyards and gardens. Today, coyuchi is being revalued and produced in small quantities, reflecting a paradigm shift: a reappraisal of brown, a look to the past in response to the challenges of today’s capitalist present. The extended format and choice of materials in Coyuchi continue a series of textiles entitled “Hechizos” (Spells). Luis recalls how, during his childhood, he would watch his grandmother write wishes on small pieces of paper, wrap them around candles, and tie them with colourful threads. For him, textile practice is a way of reconnecting with that magical, mystical space from his childhood. Weaving with paper and the meticulous selection of materials lead him to both an origin story and a quest for personal and collective identity. In this way, Coyuchi features two central bands dyed with logwood using the ikat technique. Logwood is a natural dye extracted from the Haematoxylum campechianum tree, native to Mesoamerica, especially the state of Campeche. Ikat, a resist-dyeing technique, is traditionally used in the making of the rebozo, an iconic garment of Mexican women’s culture. These prices exclude VAT
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